Day 1 - Late arrival in Luxor

We are here. It is truly only through our own persistence that we arrived. Alitalia airline canceled the Miami – Rome connection and never notified us. They then took it upon theirselves to change the Rome to Luxor connection to the next day. On the computer we found a flight out of Miami to Atlanta and then to Rome and requested that they book us on it. I can see why they are always on the verge of bankruptcy. After messing up the beginning of our trip they were in no way at all helpful in repairing it. Every time we contacted them we got different answers and never any resolution or help. Alitalia did not print my wife’s boarding pass out of Atlanta correctly. She was almost not allowed on the plane and when we arrived in Rome they had me on an Egyptair flight leaving 11 hours after hers. It was only from the help of our travel agent Beth, the people at the Miami Delta airline desk and the people at Egyptair in Rome that we arrived here. It was all very stressful but we finally arrived about 4 hours ago, 7:30 pm Luxor time.

We got a taxi to the Mercure. As for the Mercure, in the States we would consider this a two star hotel. The refrigerator does not work, the toilet never stops running, the toilet seat is broken, the bed covers have burn holes in them, the carpet is badly stained as is the bath tub and the lamp shades have burn spots on them from the light bulbs. They also informed us that we can not use our laptop because they don’t know how to connect it to their line. They have no wireless available and we did not bring a floppy disk (does anyone anymore?) to transfer files from our computer to theirs. The only internet access is two terminals in the lobby which cost $6.00 / half hour so no pictures until the trip is over. We can not afford to wait while they download.

Well that’s enough about the problems. We are on the 5th floor in front of the Nile and from our balcony we can see much of the west bank and have a good view of the Nile and Hatshepsuts’ temple. I can hardly wait to see it in the daylight. We don’t plan on spending much time in the room but if we do we will be on the balcony.

Written at 1 AM on the morning of Nov. 4 but for us it is still the end of day one. After we got settled this evening we walked down the Corniche (the main road parallel to the Nile) and saw the Luxor temple lit up. As I walked along staring at the Obelisk, 1st pylon and Colossi of Rameses the Great,



Day 2 - The West Bank Temples

Written at 9:30 PM on Nov. 4. Got the 6 AM wake up call and jumped out of bed to the balcony to see the view. Wow, there it is, the west bank of Thebes. All of the daily balloon rides were just taking off and I could actually see Hatshepsuts’ Temple accross the Nile!





What a beautiful day. I went down to the front desk at 6:30 to find out if this morning someone might know something about the time the tour was going to start. They told me “ Oh, look over there. We have a board for Kuoni with schedules.” That sure would have helped last night. The board said the Kuoni representative would be in the lobby everyday at 9:30.

I went back to the room to give our AWT tour guide a call and hoped that the tour group had not already left for the temples. He was very polite and told me that the tour would begin at 10:30 in the lobby area. Now I felt a little better. At least we had not missed anything!

After breakfast we went down to the lobby to talk to the Kuoni representative. It was about 9:15. I requested a change of hotels and told her for multiple reasons (contact with family members in ill health, work and the blog) that internet access was essential and that we were not happy with this hotel. She told us we could go to the Winter Palace to use our computer. “They have wireless there”. A 15 min. walk each way with a laptop in tow every time I wanted to log on. I don't think so. I told her we needed to be transferred to the Winter Palace but she said she could not help. She then went to the front desk and called the representative from AWT (the younger man) to come down to talk to us. We explained that we needed to be moved or some type of resolution needed to be made for daily internet access. He offered to drive us. A very nice gesture but not something I wanted to do every day. He was very polite and we may have to take him up on his offer but not really satisfied with this as resolution for all our complaints. We also told him that we needed to know what times the tour would start and end each day because we had to arrange a time to meet with Mr. Wazery, the director of the Valley of the Kings, to see the tombs of Amenhetep II and Horemheb. We have received antiquity permits from Dr. Hawass to see these two tombs. The tour guide said that he would check and get back to us by the end of the day.

We decided to wait in the lobby for the bus and who do you think walked up and sat down right beside us, none other than Dr. Weeks and his wife Susan. I introduced myself and made a little small talk. As it turned out he was on our bus that day. I was able to sit right across from him during the entire day. We talked about several different areas of excavation currently underway in KV 5 (the tomb of the sons of Rameses II).

After getting on the bus we then went to the Winter Palace to pick up other people. I could not believe this was actually happening. After being told by AWT that for “group integrity and insurance purposes” we must all stay at the same motel, here we are stopping to pick up 4 people at the Winter Palace. Well, I wasn’t going to let it ruin the rest of my day but it really made me mad.

After about a half hour drive south of Luxor and over the bridge to the ticket office just past the Colossi of Memnon, the busses stopped to let the guides out to go get our tickets for the day. The first stop was at the northern end of the west bank – Sety I’s temple. When everyone got off of the busses and gathered in the first courtyard of Sety I’s temple Dr. Weeks gave a small explanation of what we would be doing the rest of the day. He is not allowed to explain about the things we would be seeing.


Day 3 - Valley of the Kings - Day 1

Before I start telling you about the tombs I need to give credit and thanks to Francis Dzikowski, the photographer for the Theban Mapping Project and Dr. Weeks. All of the tomb interior pictures were taken by Mr. Dzikowski.

Photography in the tombs is forbidden and they are very strict about this. Do not think that just because you have given the tomb guardian some baksheesh (a tip for services provided) that you are safe. There are plain clothed employees of the SCA (Supreme Council of Antiquities) all over the place and they don’t care if you bribed a guard or not. If you are caught you will be taken to Mr. Wazery’s office and fined 50LE per picture and they are still removed from your camera. Video cameras are forbidden in the entire valley and if you are caught using one the fine is 1000LE!

I used Dr. Weeks' book The Treasures of Luxor and the Valley of the Kings as my reference for spelling and factual details throughout the entire blog.

Nov. 5 - I woke up several times during the night, mostly due to excitement. I also noticed that Viki was up once but not because she was excited. When we got the wake up call at 5 am I had already been up for a half an hour. Viki was not feeling well enough to go for breakfast. She was feeling really nauseous but still wanted to go with me to the valley today. I sat with Johan at the breakfast buffet and we talked about which tombs we would visit today over a ham and cheese omelet, fresh fruit, pastries and water. I went back to the room and picked up Viki and we got the 6:30 bus. She had a really rough time on the bus ride over and Medhat asked if he could get her something. She explained what she thought it was and he told her that “we (Egyptians) have plenty of experience with this sort of problem”. He said he would get her the proper medications from the pharmacy.

The busses dropped us off at the new visitor center. We were fairly early so we had only a few minutes wait while Medhat bought the tickets. We then all got on two taf – taf’s (train transportation).



and headed up the valley to the ticket check point where we were dropped off and then gathered to hear our itinerary for the day.





Medhat gave each of us two valley entry tickets which allowed us to visit 6 tombs and he told us to be back at the busses by 11:45.



The large “KV” numbers are the tombs we went in today and the numbers in parenthesis after them are the order in which we visited them. Double click on the picture to enlarge it.



The rest of this day consisted of:

KV 34 Thutmes III
KV 43 Thutmes IV
KV 16 Rameses I
KV 47 Siptah
KV 15 Sety II
KV 14 Tausert & Setnakht
WV 23 Aye
Luxor Museum

Day 4 – Valley of the Kings – Day 2

Before I start telling you about the tombs I need to give credit and thanks to Francis Dzikowski, the photographer for the Theban Mapping Project and Dr. Weeks, the director for the Theban Mapping Project and leader of this tour. All of the tomb interior pictures were taken by Mr. Dzikowski.

Photography in the tombs is forbidden and they are very strict about this. Do not think that just because you have given the tomb guardian some baksheesh (a tip for services provided) that you are safe. There are plain clothed employees of the SCA (Supreme Council of Antiquities) all over the place and they don’t care if you have bribed a guard or not. If you are caught you will be taken to Mr. Wazery’s office and fined 50LE per picture and the pictures are still removed from your camera. Video cameras are forbidden in the valley and if you are caught using one the fine is 1000LE!

I also want to give a sincere and deep felt thank you to Dr. Hawass, the Secretary General of the Supreme Council of Antiquities, for his very generous permission to view the tombs of Amenhetep II and Horemheb.

I used Dr. Weeks' book The Treasures of Luxor and the Valley of the Kings as my reference for spelling and factual details throughout the entire blog.


Nov. 6 – I woke up just a little before 5 AM and again watched the hot air balloons take to flight across the Nile. From our balcony we can see the Temple of Hatshepsut nestled in the Theban hills.








I’ve been excited about everything but even more so in anticipation of today’s tombs. We will see Tutankhamen and his tomb, six other tombs of our choice and I can give Mr. Wazery the e-mail I have received from Dr. Hawass and printed out last night when I was at Akmed’s internet café.

Viki is still feeling really sick to her stomach so I went to breakfast and had my usual ham and cheese omelet and pastries. I brought Viki back a couple pieces of toast and jam and she ate it on the way to the west bank.

We caught the Horus bus at 6:30 AM in front of the hotel and headed for the valley. When we arrived at the entrance to the east valley Medhat handed each of us two valley entrance tickets and a ticket for Tutankhamen.




This is a map of the tombs (green squares) we will visit today:



The rest of the day consisted of:

KV 62 Tutankhamen's tomb
KV 6 Rameses IX
KV 1 Rameses VII
KV 2 Rameses IV
KV 35 Amenhetep II
KV 57 Horemheb
KV 19 Mentuherkhepeshef
KV 16 Rameses I
Mummification Museum


Day 5 - Valley of the Kings - Day 3

Before I start telling you about the tombs I need to give credit and thanks to Francis Dzikowski, the photographer for the Theban Mapping Project and Dr. Weeks, the director for the Theban Mapping Project and the leader of this week’s tour. All of the tomb interior pictures were taken by Mr. Dzikowski.

Photography in the tombs is forbidden and they are very strict about this. Do not think that just because you have given the tomb guardian some baksheesh (a tip for services provided) that you are safe. There are plain clothed employees of the SCA (Supreme Council of Antiquities) all over the place and they don’t care if you have bribed a guard or not. If you are caught you will be taken to Mr. Wazery’s office and fined 50LE per picture and the pictures are still removed from your camera. Video cameras are forbidden in the valley and if you are caught using one the fine is 1000LE!

I used Dr. Weeks book “The Treasures of Luxor and the Valley of the Kings” as my reference for spelling and factual details throughout the entire blog.


This is our third and final day in the Valley of the Kings. Over the past three days we saw 18 different royal tombs and visited two tombs twice.  As in the previous maps I color coded each day and the number in parenthesis after the tomb KV numbers are the order in which we visited them.  If you double click on the map you can enlarge it.

Map for day 3:


The rest of the day consisted of:

KV 9 Rameses V & Rameses VI
KV 55 Amarna items or Akhenaten
KV 5 Sons of Rameses II
KV 17 Sety I